sasha DiGiulian的 8c 懸念

sasha 於格凸

ps.照片作者是阿Q.在此致謝...

11/18 sasha在部落格寫下她的 8c懸念始末:

After a week of recovery and relaxation at home, I am now back on my travels. Today I drove to the New River Gorge with a climb in mind. At the beginning of this summer I tried a route called “Still Life” at the Coliseum Wall. It is graded 8c, but I have personally found it more difficult than other 8c’s that I have tried because it is quite short and very bouldery with some long moves. At the end of May/early June when I tried it, the conditions were really hot and humid and I was not able to send the route. This is the first route that I have tried multiple times in a trip and then had to walk away from, empty-handed. This feeling of incompleteness entices me and subsequently made me want to return as soon as I could to try it again.


稍為回溯一下前此sasha在天然岩場勢如破竹的完攀路線，就很清楚這個懸念之深：

從2010八月在西班牙就爬掉了5.14s的路線

2011三月紅點兩條5.14c（其中southern smoke是她的第一條8c+），on-sight一條5.13d omaha beach，有趣的是這條路線之前也曾被 Katie Brown OS爬掉，但後來斷點，難度被提昇到14a。

sasha在2011年九月，在Rodellar in spain證明了在不同岩場的難度競逐上仍是勢如破竹

8c+ (5.14c) Cosi Fan Tutte, 4th try
8b+ (5.14a) Maskoking, Onsight
8b+ (5.14a) Ixeia, 2nd try
8b+ (5.14a) Geminis, Red Point
8b (5.13d) Eclipse Cerebral, Onsight
8b (5.13d) Les Chacals, 2nd try
8a+ (5.13c) Lola
8a (5.13b) True Crime, Onsight"


接著是石破天驚的20111019 FFA Pure Imagination 5.14d (9a)，第一試就單步都可爬完，六試就完攀。女子史上第三人。



也就難怪sasha有懸念了，而這種懸念展現的是一種攀岩者自我要求的積極作為，並不因為爬完9a而自滿。


美國在katie brown之後就沒有明星級的女子攀岩者，sasha 實力跟臉旦都很令人期待，誠然在天然岩場已有驚人的表現，但在今年世界杯並沒有爬出相對天然岩場的表現，不過在新生代選手中，她的力量無疑是令人不敢忽視的，很看好她明年的表現。


若比較katie brown與sasha，sasha長相甜美.身材矮小，給人一種fairy的形象，比起katie的沈穩應該更受到觀眾及贊助商的喜愛。不同的是sasha還未在世界杯證明她的能力，期待她明年的表現^^


這兩天sasha在twitter表示，red river gorge下雨，她懸念的still life可能要再懸一陣子了.....。